Ukrainian Fish in Red Tomato Sauce

Welcome to The Storied Recipe!  

My podcast guest, Ukrainian Olia Kouseridi, shared this Fish in Tomato Sauce recipe with us. It’s her favorite dish from Mariupol and reminds her of pleasant summer outings with her grandparents before the war. As you make her Fish in Red Sauce recipe, I invite you to listen to her powerful episode Mariupol: Summer Memories, Besieged Warfare, and the Future of Ukraine. 

Imagine a firm, flaky fish lightly fried, then slowly simmered in a rich red tomato sauce sweetened with caramelized onions. Delicious and elevated - and yet still such a simple recipe for a quick and healthy dinner!

According to Olia Koutseridi, who shared this recipe, the name of her family recipe is simply Fish in Red Sauce (Риба у томатному соусі). Others call it Ukrainian Fish in Tomato Sauce. 

Either way, Olia says: I should highlight the essence of this dish and what makes it Ukrainian and more specifically Mariupol/Donetsk Oblast/Pryazovia is the combination of tomato sauce and fish. [There is a] strong connection between red tomato sauce and fish in this part of Ukraine.

Table of Contents (Jump To Section)

What is the best fish to use for Ukrainian Fish in Tomato Sauce (especially if you don't live in Ukraine)?

• From Olia: The easiest and most accessible fish to use for this recipe is actually salmon especially since we don’t have access to any of the local fish in Mariupol. Feel free to experiment with white fish but nothing too thin like flounder which will fall apart too much in the cooking process.
• As Olia says, firm fish steaks are a good choice. These include Mahi Mahi, which can stand up to almost any preparation, as well as Arctic Char and Striped Bass.
• Frozen or Fresh Cod is an excellent (and more affordable) choice as well because it is a firmer fish that will withstand the cooking time and stand up to the rich tomato sauce. Cod in Tomato Sauce is a common cod recipe all around the world.

What's the key to perfect Ukrainian Fish in Red Sauce?

Olia stressed that the authentic Ukrainian way to make this dish is to focus on the sauce.

• And the key to the sauce, she says, is the onions. They should be very sweet and slowly caramelized. Olia says the Ukrainian variety is not available in the US, however....
• You can use Spanish onions which are closer to Ukrainian variety of sweet onion. Since you caramelize them the sweetness of the onions will come through in the dish

Best Options for Tomato Juice

• I did verify with Olia in her interview that she intended us to use tomato juice rather than tomato puree, crushed tomatoes, or tomato sauce, which is more commonly used in the US. 
• She says: Canned tomato juice works perfectly for this recipe
• The tomato juice thickens as it simmers with the onions

• You could make your own tomato juice by juicing peeled fresh tomatoes or canned tomatoes

Variations

• For a spicy tomato sauce, add a few red pepper flakes

• Other global variations on this popular fish dish call for white wine, red bell pepper, garlic cloves, or black olives.

What to serve with Fish in Tomato Sauce

• Olia recommends simple accompaniments:
• Her number one choice is a sourdough bread with a crusty exterior. If you don't prefer sourdough, any crusty bread to sop up the juices will do!
• She also suggests garnishing the dish with dill and cilantro. I personally felt the dill brought this to another level of deliciousness!
• If you'd like to add more, simple pasta and a side salad would round out the meal nicely.

Equipment You May Need

• Deep cast iron pan or skillet

Recipe Contributor:
Olia Koutseridi

Olia spent summers in Mariupol, dashing through the massive food markets, eating dried fish with her grandparents, and picnicking on the beaches alongside tourists from around the world, including Russians.

However, in 2014 those neighbors mounted siege after siege upon Mariupol. The rounds of assault and resistance became so commonplace that Olia’s grandmother, who worked at the now infamous Azovstal Steel Plant, got used to them. Olia’s family never suspected the full scale besiegement that began February 24, 2022.

For 20 days, Olia, who now lives in Austin, Texas, lost touch with her grandmother and aunt while she used her training as a historian to meticulously track the information trickling out of Mariupol. After 30 days in a basement amid shelling, as her mother’s health failed, Olia’s aunt decided she would rather die trying to escape than staying the basement. This is Olia’s account of Mariupol as it was, her story of living through the first 100 days of Russia’s war on Ukraine, why she believes Russia will never fully succeed, and how she is preserving recipes as an act of resistance and hope.

Olia's Memories of Fish in Red Sauce

My mom is an incredible cook! This dish has been a staple in her cooking for 40+ years now. She learned the recipe from my grandmother. 

For me, you can't think of Mariupol without thinking of fish. One of the most vivid memories from my childhood is smelling and seeing stall after stall of fresh fish and salted fish. 

Salted fish is something that I will always associated with the port city of Mariupol, but more importantly, my grandfather. He was an avid fisherman, hobbyist fisherman. He would salt and dry the fish, specifically the famous local goby. We had string of it always drying on the balcony in the summer breeze. 

Learn More About Olia & Mariupol

Ep. 128 Mariupol: Summer Memories, Besieged Warfare, and the Future of Ukraine 

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