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This recipe for classic Nesselrode Pie was shared by my podcast guest, James Beard Award-winning author, Geraldine DeRuiter. Make sure you listen to her episode Food, Feminism, Fury - and Family while you make her classic Nesselrode Pie!
Nesselrode Pie is a vintage dessert that richly deserves (yep, pun intended!) the comeback it's enjoying!
The pie defies definition a bit, as the flavors can vary depending on the quantity of chesnuts, type of liqueur, and preparation of fruit that you choose - and, equally, your choice of decoration, whether you choose a liberal amount of whipping cream or chocolate or just mere garnish of each.
Although traditionally this recipe falls under the "holiday pies" category, the no-bake filling, cool, soft-set custard, and liberal use of cherries all scream "summer" to me!
P.S. If you are preparing this for the holiday season, I've got 47 Traditional Christmas Desserts Around the World, many of which have been shared by my podcast guests!
What IS Nesselrode Pie? Look, Flavor, and Texture
Flavor:
- Although chesnuts are the signature ingredient in this soft custard pie, the truth is that their flavor is not dominant.
- In this recipe, you'll get strong notes of rum (although recipes vary, so feel free to choose another liquor, as I did).
- Geraldine's recipe specifically calls for Fabbri Amarena Cherries, a sweetened macerated cherry with an additional liqueur flavor
- The egg yolks in the custard lend the pie a rich flavor you wouldn't find in other soft set pies.
Contrasting Textures:
- If blink baked properly, you'll have a very thin, flaky, crispy crust
- The middle of the pie is light and soft - a custard lightened and aerated with fluffy egg whites.
- Unexpected bites of juicy, sweet candied cherries (or dried fruit, in other recipes).
- Depending on your decoration technique, you'll probably get a few firm textures from chocolate ganache or chocolate shavings.
Look:
- Have fun with it! Elements of whipped cream, fresh or candied cherries, and some form of chocolate are usually featured on the top. I have 6 suggestions listed below.
- (If you figure out how to make chesnuts look nice, let me know!)
Top Tips:
1. I highly recommend all the tips from Sally's Baking Addiction on how to properly blind bake your pie crust.
2. If you're using the Italian meringue method recommended in this recipe (some recipes simply have you add sugar to the egg whites, which is easier), I also highly recommend watching this video from Pastry Cooking From Aya before starting.
3. If something does go wrong with the egg whites, don't panic!): The gelatin will save you. The truth is, I did just about everything wrong that you can do wrong - and the pie was still perfect.
More Tips for Success with Egg Whites
- Take great care in separating the eggs not to mix any yolk into the white. For each egg, separate the white into a clean cup. That way, if a little yolk gets into one egg white, you don't corrupt the entire set.
- Use lemon juice to clean your mixing bowl and whisk off any fats before whipping the egg whites.
- Whether you use sugar syrup (as recommended in this recipe) or plain sugar, add very slowly.
- In Geraldine's episode, she mentioned a cooking teacher who told her that eggs continue to set after turning off the mixer - so, always stop a little earlier rather than later. In this instance, you want soft, silky, slightly drooping peaks.
- If possible, use fresh eggs at room temperature. We're lucky enough to have chickens in our backyard - but honestly, I've made meringues in the past with everyday grocery store days, cold, and it's worked also.
Origins of Nesselrode Cream
Nesselrode Cream is named after Karl Robert Nesselrode, who lived 82 years, from 1780–1862. At the height of his career, Count Nesselrode served under Tsar Alexander I as a Russian diplomat. The dessert was developed by the Nesselrode's French chef, Monsieur Mouy, and became popular in the mid-19th century. It was a staple in Victorian-era menus and was served in high society gatherings, particularly in Europe. I can't help but imagine the original Nesselrode creams featured much stronger chesnut flavoring.
"The Book of Household Management" by Isabella Beeton, first published in 1861, contains a form of the recipe for Nesselrode Pudding.
You can find how to make an old-fashioned Victorian Nesselrode Cream (which is simpler than a Nesselrode Pie) in this video.
Hortence Spier and the Transition to Nesselrode Pie
Although it's impossible to say how, when, or who first put Nesselrode Cream into a pie shell, we do know that Hortence Spier was a New York City caterer who played a significant role in popularizing Nesselrode Pie in the mid-20th century. Her version of the pie gained a following in the 1940s and 1950s, especially in Manhattan and the Lower East Side. Like the original Nesselrode cream, Spier’s pie had a rich flavor and combined candied fruits, chestnut puree, and often a hint of rum or brandy, all in a creamy, light, custard filling.
Spier's pies were a staple in many New York delis and restaurants, which is how Geraldine's grandfather-in-law, Seymour, bought his first of weekly pies. The popularity of Nesselrode Pie waned after Spier’s time, but it left a lasting impression on the culinary scene.
Of course, Hortence Spier wasn't the only person making Nesselrode Pie at the time. In this video, you can see an old menu at Gage and Tellner featuring Nesselrode Pie at $0.35 a slice!
Revival by Petee's Pies & Modern Remakes
In recent years, an old recipe for Nesselrode Pie has experienced a revival, thanks to Petee's Pie Company in New York City. Petee's Pie Company, known for its dedication to high-quality, classic pies, has reintroduced Nesselrode Pie from an old recipe. Their version was recently featured in The New York Times Cooking section.
Other chefs and restaurants have adapted the pie to modern desserts, like this incredible Nesselrode Ice Cream concoction, whipped up by Caroline Schiff.
Geraldine's Memories of Nesselrode Pie
My husband's grandfather has talked about this dish for ages... After years of him asking, I finally endeavored to make the pie (and he continues to ask for it on a regular basis). For me, it is about the power of memory that a recipe can hold, the way it reminds us of the people we've lost and the places that we've left.
Listen to Geraldine's Episode, 175 Food, Feminism, Fury (and Family!): Geraldine DeRuiter's Tale of the Nesselrode Pie
Ingredients & Substitutions
- Baked pie shell (I highly recommend Sally's Baking Addiction's Blind baked shell)
- Cooked, shelled, peeled chestnuts (Geraldine recommends this brand)
- Dark rum. Early recipes called for various liqueurs. I chose Hazelnut Liqueur because... I had it and I like it. Simple as that.
- Vanilla (Geraldine prefers McTaggart's vanilla bean fiori di Sicilia)
- Macerated cherries (Geraldine recommends Fabbri Amarena Cherries, which I also used. See below for more cherry options and a recipe for macerated cherries)
- Gelatin - this is your insurance policy. Don't skip it!
- Sugar - just plain white, granulated or caster sugar
- Confectioner's sugar / Powdered Sugar
- Large eggs, separated - see tips above
- Heavy cream
- Whole milk
- Kosher salt
- For garnish: Fresh whipping cream
- For garnish: Chocolate shavings or chocolate ganache
- For garnish: Fresh cherries
Variations: More Nesselrode Desserts
- Simple Victorian Nesselrode Cream
- Nesselrode Ice Cream Sundae
- Mango Nesselrode Pudding
- Nesselrode Latte
Which Cherries Are Best?
1. Luxardo Maraschino Cherries
- Link: Luxardo Maraschino Cherries
- What's Nice:
- Authentic Flavor: These cherries are renowned for their rich, authentic maraschino flavor, which is derived from marasca cherries.
- High-Quality: Luxardo cherries are preserved in a syrup made from their own juice, providing a natural and intense cherry flavor.
- Appearance: Their deep, dark color adds an elegant touch to the pie, and they hold their shape well, making them perfect for decoration.
2. Amarena Fabbri Cherries
- Link: Amarena Fabbri Cherries
- What's Nice:
- Distinctive Taste: These Italian cherries are known for their unique, slightly tart flavor, which balances well with the sweetness of the pie.
- Traditional Preparation: They are preserved in a rich, syrupy sauce made from their own juices and sugar, ensuring a deep, concentrated flavor.
- Elegant Presentation: The cherries are small, dark, and have a beautiful shine, making them an attractive topping for the pie.
3. Macerated Fresh Bing Cherries (Fresh)
- Link: Use this recipe from Simple Comfort Food
- What's Nice:
- Freshness: Fresh Bing cherries provide a juicy, sweet, and slightly tart flavor that can elevate the freshness of the pie.
- Natural Look: They add a vibrant, natural aesthetic to the pie, perfect for a more rustic or homemade look.
- Versatility: They can be used in their natural state or lightly cooked to enhance their flavor and soften their texture, making them versatile for different decorating styles.
Instructions
Step 1: Prepare A Chestnut Puree
- Blend chestnuts with sugar until smooth in a food processor.
- Add rum gradually, blending until smooth.
Step 2: Make the Chesnut Custard/Gelatin Mixture
- Chill a metal bowl in the freezer.
- Combine sugar, gelatin, salt, egg yolks, chestnut puree, cream, and milk in a pot.
- Cook over medium heat until thickened.
- Transfer to a chilled bowl, stir in rum, and chill until thickened, stirring every 10 minutes.
Step 3: Make an Italian Meringue
- Cook sugar and water until 244 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius).
- Meanwhile, beat egg whites on low.
- Gradually add hot syrup to egg whites, while continuing to beat until medium-stiff, silky slightly drooping peaks form.
Step 4: Combine Custard and Meringue
- Fold a portion of meringue into custard until smooth.
- Gently fold in remaining meringue to the custard/meringue mixture.
Step 5: Assemble the Pie
- Fold macerated cherries into remaining filling, spread in shell, and refrigerate.
Step 6: Decorate
- Whip cream with confectioner’s sugar, vanilla, and salt until fluffy.
- Decorate as desired, see ideas below.
- Slice with a hot, wet knife and serve promptly.
Equipment
- Small heavy-bottomed saucepan with cool handle and pour spout
- Pastry tip set
- Mixing bowl
- Food processor
Decorating Options
Nesselrode Pie decorations generally include some combination of chocolate (dark chocolate or sweet chocolate, your choice), cherries (fresh, candied, or macerated, your choice), and whipped cream (spread or piped, your choice.) Here are 6 ideas to get you started.
1. Chocolate Shavings and Whipped Cream Rosettes
- Step 1: Cover the top of the pie with shaved chocolate or chocolate curls.
- Step 2: Pipe whipped cream rosettes around the edge of the pie.
- Step 3: Place a cherry (either fresh or in syrup) in the center of each whipped cream rosette.
2. Chocolate Ganache Drizzle and Cherry Garnish
- Step 1: Spread a layer of whipped cream evenly over the pie before drizzling the ganache.
- Step 2: Drizzle a rich chocolate ganache over the top of the pie in a diamond pattern.
- Step 3: Arrange fresh cherries or cherries in syrup around the perimeter of the pie.
3. Chocolate-Covered Cherries and Whipped Cream Peaks
- Step 1: Dip fresh cherries or cherries in syrup in melted chocolate, allowing them to harden.
- Step 2: Pipe large peaks of whipped cream in a circular pattern on top of the pie.
- Step 3: Place a chocolate-covered cherry on each peak of whipped cream.
4. Cherry Syrup Swirls and Chocolate Chips
- Step 1: Create swirls on the surface of the pie using cherry syrup.
- Step 2: Pipe small whipped cream stars around the perimeter of the pie.
- Step 3: Sprinkle mini chocolate chips evenly over the whipped cream, and place a few fresh cherries or cherries in syrup decoratively.
5. Whipped Cream Layers and Cherry Centerpiece
- Step 1: Layer the top of the pie with a thick layer of whipped cream.
- Step 2: Use a fine grater to dust the entire surface lightly with grated chocolate.
- Step 3: Pile a generous mound of fresh cherries or cherries in syrup in the center of the pie.
6. Chocolate Lace and Whipped Cream Border
- Decoration: Create a lattice pattern with melted chocolate on parchment paper, let it harden, and then place it on top of the pie.
- Whipped Cream: Pipe a continuous border of whipped cream around the edge of the pie.
- Cherries: Nestle fresh cherries or cherries in syrup in between the lattice patterns, and place some on the whipped cream border.
More Pie and Pastry Recipes
Listen: Geraldine's Memories of Nesselrode Pie
Today’s guest, Geraldine DeRuitter won the James Beard Award for Journalism in 2019 for a post she typed out in about 45 minutes. Before that, her blog The Everywhereist, had already topped Time magazine’s choice of best blogs in America.
Geraldine’s latest book is titled If You Can’t Take the Heat: Tales of Feminism, Food, and Fury, and having read it in just a few sittings, I’ll add that they are also tales of deep vulnerability which provoked strong responses from me, in the form of scribbled notes in the margins and a list of questions about 4x longer than we were able to discuss.
We begin with a recipe for Nesselrode Pie, which Geraldine made for her grandfather-in-law, in honor of the best days of his life.
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Recipe
Nesselrode Pie Recipe (Vintage New York Dessert)
Ingredients
Pie Crust
- 9 inch Pie crust (See Note 1*)
Chesnut Puree
- ⅓ cup (40 g) cooked, shelled, peeled Chestnuts
- 1 tablespoon Sugar
- ¼-½ cup Dark rum (or other liqueur)
Make a Custard
- 3 large Egg yolks (You'll use the eggs in a moment)
- 1 Tbsp. Gelatin
- ½ teaspoon Kosher salt
- ¾ cups Heavy cream
- 1 ¼ cups Whole milk
- 1 tsp. Vanilla
To Complete the Filling
- ½ cup Macerated cherries (See Note 2*)
For Decorating
- Chocolate shavings, chunks, or ganache
- ¾ cup Whipping cream
- 1/4 cup Confectioner’s sugar, sifted
- 1/4 teaspoon Vanilla extract
- Pinch Salt
Instructions
Cue Up The Episode!
- Make sure you listen to Geraldine's episode on The Storied Recipe Podcast, Food, Feminism, Fury - and Family, while you make her Nesselrode Pie!
Make The Recipe
Make a Chesnut Puree
- Combine the chestnuts and 1 tablespoon sugar in a food processor.
- Turn on the food processor and slowly add 1/4 - 1/2 cup of rum (or liqueur) until the puree is no longer grainy, stopping every 30 seconds to scrape down the sides. (You can also use a mortar and pestle if you need the workout.) Make sure to get this as smooth as possible, because any chunks that remain will appear in the pie - though that's not the end of the world. You can also add a smidge more rum (or liquor of your choosing), if that's to your liking.
Make a Custard
- Place a medium metal bowl in the freezer.
- In a medium pot, whisk together 1/4 cup sugar, the gelatin, and the salt. Whisk in the egg yolks, followed by the chestnut puree, then gradually whisk in the cream, followed by the milk.
- Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly to make sure it doesn't stick or scramble (you don't want scrambled custard, trust me).
- Continue to whisk until the mixture is 180°F on a candy thermometer.
- Remove from the heat and immediately pour the mixture into the chilled bowl.
- Whisk in the remaining 3 tablespoons of rum and refrigerate.
- Stir every 15 minutes until the custard is chilled and thickened.
- If you are short on time, you can also place the bowl over another bowl of ice, and stir it until it has cooled and just started to thicken.
Make an Italian Meringue
- Do not begin this step until the custard is cool.
- Place the egg whites in a mixing bowl and begin beating the egg whites, slowly at a 1 or 2 speed.
- In a small pot, cover 1/3 cup sugar with water (just barely cover).
- Cook over medium heat, whisking until the sugar has dissolved and the syrup begins to show a really large bubble, until 118 degrees Celsius or 244 degrees Fahrenheit.
- Increase the speed of the mixer to the highest speed.
- Very slowly pour the syrup into the egg whites, being careful to let the syrup run down the side of the bowl into the whites.
- Add the vanilla and continue beating until the meringue holds medium-stiff peaks and looks like silky, pillowy, drooping clouds, 3–5 minutes.
Combine the Meringue and Custard to Make the Filling
- Transfer about ¾ of the meringue from the mixer into a clean bowl and set aside, leaving the remainder in the mixer bowl.
- Pour the chestnut custard into the mixer bowl and beat with the residual meringue until very smooth and lightened.
- Remove the bowl from the mixer, then fold in the reserved meringue just until combined.
- (Note: if you are using the hand mixer, you can save yourself washing a bowl, add 1/4 of the meringue directly to the custard, and mix it in there before adding the rest of the meringue. But you absolutely need to add the meringue in two steps like this, to make sure it doesn't deflate.)
Fill and Chill
- Combine the filling with the macerated cherries.
- Pile the filling into a prebaked pie shell.
- Refrigerate the pies until set, at least 4 hours.
Decorate
- Once again, place a glass bowl and metal mixers into the freezer until very, very cold.
- Once the glass is frosted over, remove it from the freezer and add the whipping cream, confectioner’s sugar, and vanilla. Beat until the cream holds its shape but is still very smooth.
- Use the whipped cream, fresh or macerated cherries, and chocolate ganache, shavings, chunks, or chips to decorate as desired. (Six ideas are listed above.)
- Make sure to listen to Geraldine's episode, Food, Feminism, Fury - and Family, while you make her Nesselrode Pie Recipe!
Notes
- Make sure to listen to Geraldine's episode, Food, Feminism, Fury - and Family, while you make her Nesselrode Pie Recipe!
- Note 1: I highly recommend this recipe from Sally's Baking Addiction for blind baking your crust
- Note 2: Store-bought or homemade cherries, divided. I like to use Fabbri Amarena cherries, but if you don't like your desserts very sweet, it's okay to rinse them to get the syrup off)
Nutrition
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