Welcome to The Storied Recipe Podcast, a podcast about food, culture, and love.
This recipe for classic Nesselrode Pie was shared by my podcast guest, James Beard Award-winning author, Geraldine DeRuiter. Make sure you listen to her episode Food, Feminism, Fury - and Family while you make her classic Nesselrode Pie!
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Nesselrode Pie is a vintage dessert that richly deserves (yep, pun intended!) the comeback it's enjoying!
The pie defies definition a bit, as the flavors can vary depending on the quantity of chesnuts, type of liquer, and preparation of fruit that you choose - and, equally, your choice of decoration, whether you choose a liberal amount of whipping cream or chocolate or just mere garnish of each.
Although traditionally this recipe falls under the "holiday pies" category, the no-bake filling, cool, soft-set custard, and liberal use of cherries all scream "summer" to me!
P.S. If you are preparing this for the holiday season, I've got 47 Traditional Christmas Desserts Around the World, many of which have been shared by my podcast guests!
What IS Nesselrode Pie? Look, Flavor, and Texture
Flavor:
- Although chesnuts are the signature ingredient in this soft custard pie, the truth is that their flavor is not dominant.
- In this recipe, you'll get strong notes of rum (although recipes vary, so feel free to choose another liquor,as I did).
- Geraldine's recipe specifically calls for ??? cherries, a sweetened macerated cherry with an additional liquer flavor
- The egg yolks in the custard lend the pie a rich flavor you wouldn't find in other soft set pies.
Contrasting Textures:
- If blink baked properly, you'll have a very thin, flaky, crispy crust
- The middle of the pie is light and soft - a custard lightened and aerated with fluffy egg whites.
- Unexpected bites of juicy, sweet candied cherries (or dried fruit, in other recipes).
- Depending on your decoration technique, you'll probably get a few firm textures from chocolate ganache or chocolate shavings.
Look:
- Have fun with it! Elements of whipped cream, fresh or candied cherries, and some form of chocolate are usually featured on the top. I have 6 suggestions listed below.
- (If you figure out how to make chesnuts look nice, let me know!)
Top Tips:
1. I highly recommend all the tips from Sally's Baking Addiction on how to properly blind bake your pie crust.
2. If you're using the Italian meringue method recommended in this recipe (some recipes simply have you add sugar to the egg whites, which is easier), I also highly recommend watching this video from Pastry Cooking From Aya before starting.
3. If something does go wrong with the egg whites, don't panic!): The gelatin will save you. The truth is, I did just about everything wrong that you can do wrong - and the pie was still perfect.
More Tips for Success with Egg Whites
- Take great care in separating the eggs not to mix any yolk into the white. For each egg, separate the white into a clean cup. That way, if a little yolk gets into one egg white, you don't corrupt the entire set.
- Use lemon juice to clean your mixing bowl and whisk of any fats before whipping the egg whites.
- Whether you use a sugar syrup (as recommended in this recipe) or plain sugar, add very slowly.
- In Geraldine's episode, she mentioned a cooking teacher who told her that eggs continue to set after turning off the mixer - so, always stop a little earlier rather than later. In this instance, you want soft, silky, slightly drooping peaks.
- If possible, use fresh eggs at room temperature. We're lucky enough to have chickens in our backyard - but honestly, I've made meringues in the past with everyday grocery store days, cold, and it's worked also.
Origins of Nesselrode Cream
Nesselrode Cream is named after Karl Robert Nesselrode, who lived 82 years, from 1780–1862. At the height of his career, Count Nesselrode served under Tsar Alexander I as a Russian diplomat. The dessert was developed by the Nesselrode's French chef, Monsieur Mouy, and became popular in the mid-19th century. It was a staple in Victorian-era menus and was served in high society gatherings, particularly in Europe. I can't help but imagine the original Nesselrode creams featured much stonger chesnut flavoring.
"The Book of Household Management" by Isabella Beeton, first published in 1861, contains a form of the recipe for Nesselrode Pudding.
You can find how to make an old-fashioned Victorian Nesselrode Cream (which is simpler than a Nesselrode Pie) in this video.
Hortence Spier and the Transition to Nesselrode Pie
Although it's impossible to say how, when, or who first put Nesselrode Cream into a pie shell, we do know that Hortence Spier was a New York City caterer who played a significant role in popularizing Nesselrode Pie in the mid-20th century. Her version of the pie gained a following in the 1940s and 1950s, especially in Manhattan and the Lower East Side. Like the original Nesselrode cream, Spier’s pie had a rich flavor and combined candied fruits, chestnut puree, and often a hint of rum or brandy, all in a creamy, light, custard filling.
Spier's pies were a staple in many New York delis and restaurants, which is how Geraldine's grandfather-in-law, Seymour, bought his first of weekly pies. The popularity of Nesselrode Pie waned after Spier’s time, but it left a lasting impression on the culinary scene.
Of course, Hortence Spier wasn't the only person making Nesselrode Pie at the time. In this video, you can see an old menu at Gage and Tellner featuring Nesselrode Pie at $0.35 a slice!
Revival by Petee's Pies & Modern Remakes
In recent years, an old recipe for Nesselrode Pie has experienced a revival, thanks toPetee's Pie Company in New York City. Petee's Pie Company, known for its dedication to high-quality, classic pies, has reintroduced Nesselrode Pie from an old recipe. Their version was recently featured The New York Times Cooking section.
Other chefs and restaurants have adapted the pie to modern desserts, like this incredible Nesselrode Ice Cream concoction, whipped up by Caroline Schiff.
Geraldine's Memories of Nesselrode Pie
My husband's grandfather has talked about this dish for ages... After years of him asking, I finally endeavored to make the pie (and he continues to ask for it on a regular basis). For me it is about the power of memory that a recipe can hold, the way it reminds us of the people we've lost, and the places that we've left.
Listen to Geraldine's Episode, 175 Food, Feminism, Fury (and Family!): Geraldine DeRuiter's Tale of the Nesselrode Pie
Ingredients & Substitutions
- Baked pie shell (I highly recommend Sally's Baking Addiction's Blind baked shell)
- Cooked, shelled, peeled chestnuts (Geraldine recommends this brand)
- Dark rum. Early recipes called for various liqueurs. I chose Hazelnut Liqueur because.... I had it and I like it. Simple as that.
- Vanilla (Geraldine prefers McTaggart's vanilla bean fiori di Sicilia)
- Macerated cherries (Geraldine recommends Fabbri Amarena Cherries, which I used also. See below for more cherry options and a recipe for macerated cherries)
- Gelatin - this is your insurance policy. Don't skip it!
- Sugar - just plain white, granulated or caster sugar
- Confectioner's sugar / Powdered Sugar
- Large eggs, separated - see tips above
- Heavy cream
- Whole milk
- Kosher salt
- For garnish: Fresh whipping cream
- For garnish: Chocolate shavings or chocolate ganache
- For garnish: Fresh cherries
Variations: More Nesselrode Desserts
- Simple Victorian Nesselrode Cream
- Nesselrode Ice Cream Sundae
- Mango Nesselrode Pudding
- Nesselrode Latte
Which Cherries Are Best?
1. Luxardo Maraschino Cherries
- Link: Luxardo Maraschino Cherries
- What's Nice:
- Authentic Flavor: These cherries are renowned for their rich, authentic maraschino flavor, which is derived from marasca cherries.
- High-Quality: Luxardo cherries are preserved in a syrup made from their own juice, providing a natural and intense cherry flavor.
- Appearance: Their deep, dark color adds an elegant touch to the pie, and they hold their shape well, making them perfect for decoration.
2. Amarena Fabbri Cherries
- Link: Amarena Fabbri Cherries
- What's Nice:
- Distinctive Taste: These Italian cherries are known for their unique, slightly tart flavor, which balances well with the sweetness of the pie.
- Traditional Preparation: They are preserved in a rich, syrupy sauce made from their own juices and sugar, ensuring a deep, concentrated flavor.
- Elegant Presentation: The cherries are small, dark, and have a beautiful shine, making them an attractive topping for the pie.
3. Macerated Fresh Bing Cherries (Fresh)
- Link: Use this recipe from Simple Comfort Food
- What's Nice:
- Freshness: Fresh Bing cherries provide a juicy, sweet, and slightly tart flavor that can elevate the freshness of the pie.
- Natural Look: They add a vibrant, natural aesthetic to the pie, perfect for a more rustic or homemade look.
- Versatility: They can be used in their natural state or lightly cooked to enhance their flavor and soften their texture, making them versatile for different decorating styles.
Instructions
Step 1: Prepare A Chestnut Puree
- Blend chestnuts with sugar until smooth in a food processor.
- Add rum gradually, blending until smooth.
Step 2: Make the Chesnut Custard/Gelatin Mixture
- Chill a metal bowl in the freezer.
- Combine sugar, gelatin, salt, egg yolks, chestnut puree, cream, and milk in a pot.
- Cook over medium heat until thickened.
- Transfer to chilled bowl, stir in rum, and chill until thickened, stirring every 10 minutes.
Step 3: Make an Italian Meringue
- Cook sugar and water until 244 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius).
- Meanwhile, beat egg whites on low.
- Gradually add hot syrup to egg whites, while continuing to beat until medium-stiff, silky slightly drooping peaks form.
Step 4: Combine Custard and Meringue
- Fold a portion of meringue into custard until smooth.
- Gently fold in remaining meringue to the custard/meringue mixture.
Step 5: Assemble the Pie
- Fold macerated cherries into remaining filling, spread in shell, and refrigerate.
Step 6: Decorate
- Whip cream with confectioner’s sugar, vanilla, and salt until fluffy.
- Decorate as desired, see ideas below.
- Slice with a hot, wet knife and serve promptly.
Equipment
- Small heavy-bottomed saucepan with cool handle and pour spout
- Pastry tip set
- Mixing bowl
- Food processor
Decorating Options
Nesselrode Pie decorations generally include some combination of chocolate (dark chocolate or sweet chocolate, your choice), cherries (fresh, candied, or macerated, your choice), and whipped cream (spread or piped, your choice.) Here are 6 ideas to get you started.
1. Chocolate Shavings and Whipped Cream Rosettes
- Step 1: Cover the top of the pie with shaved chocolate or chocolate curls.
- Step 2: Pipe whipped cream rosettes around the edge of the pie.
- Step 3: Place a cherry (either fresh or in syrup) in the center of each whipped cream rosette.
2. Chocolate Ganache Drizzle and Cherry Garnish
- Step 1: Spread a layer of whipped cream evenly over the pie before drizzling the ganache.
- Step 2: Drizzle a rich chocolate ganache over the top of the pie in a diamond pattern.
- Step 3: Arrange fresh cherries or cherries in syrup around the perimeter of the pie.
3. Chocolate-Covered Cherries and Whipped Cream Peaks
- Step 1: Dip fresh cherries or cherries in syrup in melted chocolate, allowing them to harden.
- Step 2: Pipe large peaks of whipped cream in a circular pattern on top of the pie.
- Step 3: Place a chocolate-covered cherry on each peak of whipped cream.
4. Cherry Syrup Swirls and Chocolate Chips
- Step 1: Create swirls on the surface of the pie using cherry syrup.
- Step 2: Pipe small whipped cream stars around the perimeter of the pie.
- Step 3: Sprinkle mini chocolate chips evenly over the whipped cream, and place a few fresh cherries or cherries in syrup decoratively.
5. Whipped Cream Layers and Cherry Centerpiece
- Step 1: Layer the top of the pie with a thick layer of whipped cream.
- Step 2: Use a fine grater to dust the entire surface lightly with grated chocolate.
- Step 3: Pile a generous mound of fresh cherries or cherries in syrup in the center of the pie.
6. Chocolate Lace and Whipped Cream Border
- Decoration: Create a lattice pattern with melted chocolate on parchment paper, let it harden, and then place it on top of the pie.
- Whipped Cream: Pipe a continuous border of whipped cream around the edge of the pie.
- Cherries: Nestle fresh cherries or cherries in syrup in between the lattice patterns, and place some on the whipped cream border.
More Pie and Pastry Recipes
Listen: Geraldine's Memories of Nesselrode Pie
Today’s guest, Geraldine DeRuitter won the James Beard Award for Journalism in 2019 for a post she typed out in about 45 minutes. Before that, her blog The Everywhereist, had already topped Time magazine’s choice of best blogs in America.
Geraldine’s latest book is titled, If You Can’t Take the Heat: Tales of Feminism, Food, and Fury and having read it in just a few sittings, I’ll add that they are also tales of deep vulnerability which provoked strong responses from me, in the form of scribbled notes in the margins and a list of questions about 4x longer than we were able to discuss.
We begin with a recipe for Nesselrode Pie, which Geraldine made for her grandfather-in-law, in honor of the best days of his life.
Would love to hear from you!