This strawberry jam recipe comes to us from Letitia Clark, author of the visually stunning cookbook "Bitter Honey" - "A Compilation of Stories and Recipes from the Island of Sardinia". Of course, any of us would easily dream of life on this Italian island, where relaxing is a way of life, and eating is an art form. The appeal is obvious. However, when I learned that Letitia was raised on an apple orchard in Devon, the move to Sardinia became a little more difficult for me to understand. After all, as I told Letitia in our conversation - "Devon is my Sardinia"! (Of course, there's so much more to the story and I'd invite you to listen to Letitia's episode "I Wanted to Encourage People" to hear her story of working as a chef in many London kitchen, then falling in love with home cooking in Sardinia. The words "Devon", "scones", "clotted cream" and "strawberry jam" will always be almost magical to me - until I visit Devon, I'll continue to wonder if it really exists or if it's only found in books. That's why I was delighted when Letitia shared this recipe that connects her to her grandmother, Devon, and now, to Sardinia as well. Before skipping to the recipe, I'd urge you to read Letitia's absolutely poetic words below - which will also answer why I'm titling this Strawberry (Lemon) Jam.
Strawberies to me will always taste of summers in England. That flavour, and that fragrance
are so reminiscent of every summer of my life it feels so strange to smell it in April, in
Sardinia.
In Sardinia strawberries taste of spring. The heat of the Italian climate means that the
strawberries ripen in mid-April. Sardinian summers taste instead of salt and fat and fish and
watermelon; the scorched skin of a grilled squid, the fat of a barbecued sausage, the salty
lick of an upper lip, the dusty white saline crust of skin after swimming. Summer in Sardinia
tastes of sun cream and iced coffee and gelato and the cool, clean, chemical flavour of
watermelon.
Whenever and wherever you make it, strawberry jam is indisputably the most precious of all
the jams. It has a floral delicacy and sweet intensity which are incomparable. This is the best
strawberry jam recipe I have ever made, it allows the berries to maintain their integrity, not
cooked so much so that they disintegrate or are muffled by the solid shout of sugar, instead
entire and flavourful and suspended in a shining fragrant syrup, almost like candied
strawberries. To counterbalance the sweetness of the strawberries, a lot of lemon is added
and the tiniest pinch of salt too. The butter is a trick from my cooking school days, which
helps to dissolve the scum on the top of the jam, and (I think) adds a subtle edge to the
flavour.
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Episodes Related to this Strawberry (Lemon) Jam
Episode 045: "I Wanted to Encourage People"
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Or listen to Lettita now:














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